Talk torqueing.

[T.Gee]

Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd like on
the wheel nuts. Now although I've used the same suppliers for many years and
with the same vehicle, I'd not been asked this before and had to consult the
car manual.

I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.

For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined to
think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)

Regards Gee

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <h4cRc.1447$JP2.1069@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>,
T.Gee <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
> I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
> originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.

> For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm
> inclined to think the original torque would apply, however I've been
> wrong before:-)

You're right - different nuts won't effect the required torque.

I'm amazed at a tyre place asking. It's not the sort of information that's
in the handbook, so most owners couldn't be expected to know.

--
*The beatings will continue until morale improves *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dan Drake]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 21:45:49 GMT, "T.Gee"
<Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

>Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd like on
>the wheel nuts. Now although I've used the same suppliers for many years and
>with the same vehicle, I'd not been asked this before and had to consult the
>car manual.
>
>I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
>originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
>For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined to
>think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)

I think the usual is for the brainless twats to take the torque
limiter off the gun altogether - possibly even using the 'hammer'
position for extra effect - then blast away until the thing is close
to breaking their wrists.

That's the only reason I can think of that explains why I can't undo
the damned nuts when I get a flat on a dark and rainy night, with
lorries shaving my butt as they go by, even if i jump up and down on
the wheel brace.
--
Dan Drake

[Richard Porter]

On 7 Aug 2004 "T.Gee" <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

> Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd
> like on the wheel nuts. ...
>
> I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are
> the originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
> For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined to
> think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)

It would help if you told us what car it is, what type of wheels you
have or what size the wheel studs are. But to give you some idea I have
Mini-based cars with alloy wheels and 11/16" AF chromed steel nuts. I do
the wheel nuts up to 42 lb-ft. I'm not sure what the thread size is but
it's probably around 3/8" UNF. If you have steel wheels or alloys with
steel inserts it's not too critical. When tightening steel nuts onto
alloy be careful not to overtighten.

--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."

[T.Gee]

Dave, Thanks for taking the trouble to reply; Yes I too was surprised but
when questioned the proprietor stated that with the ever present threat of
litigation for some of the most outrageous non-events he felt it was
necessary. (BTW my car manual gives the required setting - much to my
surprise!" Regards Gee.

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4cdaec8930dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article <h4cRc.1447$JP2.1069@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>,
> T.Gee <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
> > I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
> > originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
> > For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm
> > inclined to think the original torque would apply, however I've been
> > wrong before:-)
>
> You're right - different nuts won't effect the required torque.
>
> I'm amazed at a tyre place asking. It's not the sort of information that's
> in the handbook, so most owners couldn't be expected to know.
>
> --
> *The beatings will continue until morale improves *
>
> Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
> To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[T.Gee]

Richard, Thanks for replying - I purposely didn't cloud the query with this
information as I thought it would be a red herring. Afterall, what I was
asking was simply would the setting be different if only the fixing nuts
were changed. Regards Gee

"Richard Porter" <dontusethis@address.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:e5a7e9da4c.news@user.minijem.plus.com...
> On 7 Aug 2004 "T.Gee" <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> > Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd
> > like on the wheel nuts. ...
> >
> > I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are
> > the originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
> >
> > For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm
inclined to
> > think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)
>
> It would help if you told us what car it is, what type of wheels you
> have or what size the wheel studs are. But to give you some idea I have
> Mini-based cars with alloy wheels and 11/16" AF chromed steel nuts. I do
> the wheel nuts up to 42 lb-ft. I'm not sure what the thread size is but
> it's probably around 3/8" UNF. If you have steel wheels or alloys with
> steel inserts it's not too critical. When tightening steel nuts onto
> alloy be careful not to overtighten.
>
> --
> Richard Porter
> Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
> "You can't have Windows without pains."

[T.Gee]

Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.......... sorry to hear of your
bad experience. Have you thought of changing your supplier possibly? .....
:-) Regards Gee
"Dan Drake" <ddrake@comcast.notthis.net> wrote in message
news:erkah016h7tk5c3m1atfmpgjm2u6t4o0sb@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 21:45:49 GMT, "T.Gee"
> <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> >Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd like
on
> >the wheel nuts. Now although I've used the same suppliers for many years
and
> >with the same vehicle, I'd not been asked this before and had to consult
the
> >car manual.
> >
> >I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
> >originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
> >
> >For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined
to
> >think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)
>
> I think the usual is for the brainless twats to take the torque
> limiter off the gun altogether - possibly even using the 'hammer'
> position for extra effect - then blast away until the thing is close
> to breaking their wrists.
>
> That's the only reason I can think of that explains why I can't undo
> the damned nuts when I get a flat on a dark and rainy night, with
> lorries shaving my butt as they go by, even if i jump up and down on
> the wheel brace.
> --
> Dan Drake

[Andy Dingley]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 22:54:52 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

>You're right - different nuts won't effect the required torque.

Different nuts may require different torques, if they have a different
cone angle on the seats. It's unusual these days, but in the days of
standard steel wheels and alloy wheels being an after-market tweak,
then it was usual that the nuts would be swapped to match the new
seats.
--
Smert' spamionam

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

In article <4ynRc.514$fN5.88@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>, T.Gee
<URL:mailto:Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

> Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.

This might be of some help to you...

http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <p38ch0lhvqo8n28437qvu1vqq584bevdf4@4ax.com>,
Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> >You're right - different nuts won't effect the required torque.

> Different nuts may require different torques, if they have a different
> cone angle on the seats.

But they were simply replacements for the originals - made out of a
different material.

> It's unusual these days, but in the days of standard steel wheels and
> alloy wheels being an after-market tweak, then it was usual that the
> nuts would be swapped to match the new seats.

I'd hope so - steel wheels have commonly a taper, alloys not.

FWIW, the only handy manual I have is for the SD1, which had steel and two
types of alloy wheels, and three types of nuts. All the same torque,
though.

Wheel fixing torque isn't at all critical - if it was they'd supply a
torque wrench for fitting the spare in event of a puncture.

--
*The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[R.N. Robinson]

"Richard Porter" <dontusethis@address.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:e5a7e9da4c.news@user.minijem.plus.com...
> On 7 Aug 2004 "T.Gee" <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> > Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd
> > like on the wheel nuts. ...
> >
> > I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are
> > the originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
> >
> > For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm
inclined to
> > think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)
>
> It would help if you told us what car it is, what type of wheels you
> have or what size the wheel studs are. But to give you some idea I have
> Mini-based cars with alloy wheels and 11/16" AF chromed steel nuts. I do
> the wheel nuts up to 42 lb-ft. I'm not sure what the thread size is but
> it's probably around 3/8" UNF. If you have steel wheels or alloys with
> steel inserts it's not too critical. When tightening steel nuts onto
> alloy be careful not to overtighten.
>

Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts are
overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could be wrong
and it might have been something else.

The stainless steel that the nuts in the original question are made from is
probably about the same strength as the original wheel nuts so the
tightening torque shouldn't alter.

Ron Robinson

[:::Jerry::::]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4cdb40d528dave@davenoise.co.uk...
<snip>
>
> Wheel fixing torque isn't at all critical - if it was they'd supply a
> torque wrench for fitting the spare in event of a puncture.
>

And better over tight than over loose, as one customer (some years ago)
found out after insisting he tightened his own wheel nuts, he couldn't
understand why this information was placed, and signed for, on the invoice -
until he came back two days later ranting that one of his wheels had come
off and demanding a new wheel, nuts and studs !

Funny how he just walked off when confronted by the accounts dept. copy of
the invoice...

[Andy Dingley]

On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 14:15:36 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

>Wheel fixing torque isn't at all critical

Unless you have a Triumph - you can shear those tiny little things by
hand.

--
Smert' spamionam

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <2nn0ieF2elq2U2@uni-berlin.de>,
:::Jerry:::: <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> And better over tight than over loose, as one customer (some years ago)
> found out after insisting he tightened his own wheel nuts, he couldn't
> understand why this information was placed, and signed for, on the
> invoice - until he came back two days later ranting that one of his
> wheels had come off and demanding a new wheel, nuts and studs !

If you put all your weight on the car wheel brace, you'll not be a million
miles out. He must have been a prat.

I've had to replace a couple of studs after the 'kwik fit' boys
stretched them.

--
*'Progress' and 'Change' are not synonyms.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <dqkch0tlmqmoqs7i8vgbau66n6ld58ei8s@4ax.com>,
Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> >Wheel fixing torque isn't at all critical

> Unless you have a Triumph - you can shear those tiny little things by
> hand.

With the supplied wheelbrace?

--
*Depression is merely anger without enthusiasm *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[T.Gee]

Many, Many thanks to all for your views and experiences. It is quite
reassuring to be able to share in the knowledge of the Classic car
enthusiasts. regards Gee.


"Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" <me8@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:ant0812190b0dVpW@office.ajlelectronics.co.uk. ..
> In article <4ynRc.514$fN5.88@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>, T.Gee
> <URL:mailto:Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> > Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
>
> This might be of some help to you...
>
> http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post
>
> --
> AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
> http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk
>

[SteveH]

T.Gee <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:


>
>
> "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" <me8@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:ant0812190b0dVpW@office.ajlelectronics.co.uk. ..
> > In article <4ynRc.514$fN5.88@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>, T.Gee
> > <URL:mailto:Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
> >
> > This might be of some help to you...
> >
> > http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post

> Many, Many thanks to all for your views and experiences. It is quite
> reassuring to be able to share in the knowledge of the Classic car
> enthusiasts. regards Gee.

You didn't look at the link, did you?

--
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300
VW Golf GL Cabrio - Alfa 75 TS - Alfa 155 TS Lusso - COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #

[Andy Dingley]

On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 20:30:51 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

>> Unless you have a Triumph - you can shear those tiny little things by
>> hand.
>
>With the supplied wheelbrace?

With an Allen key !

[:::Jerry::::]

"Andy Dingley" <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:oiedh0hginip2ki5icl6uhojsfohvirfmv@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 20:30:51 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
> <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >> Unless you have a Triumph - you can shear those tiny little things by
> >> hand.
> >
> >With the supplied wheelbrace?
>
> With an Allen key !
>

WTF were you doing with one of those ?!..

[Jim Warren]

R.N. Robinson <ronrob@frumiousbandersnatch.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cf5i0t$oe7$1@news5.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
>
> Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts are
> overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could be wrong
> and it might have been something else.
>
I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
suspension).

Jim

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <RgIRc.1902$5n4.20219034@news-text.cableinet.net>,
Jim Warren <jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts
> > are overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could
> > be wrong and it might have been something else.
> >
> I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> suspension).

I'm not sure that was down to overtightening - they changed the wheel
design pretty early on. Perhaps didn't realise just how hard some would
drive them.

--
*I don't work here. I'm a consultant

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Andy Dingley]

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 10:23:45 GMT, "Jim Warren"
<jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
>suspension).

Was that a _really_ early Mini ? The very first ones could shed a
wheel if you drove in tight figure eights for long enough - the wheel
pulled clean over the nut.
--
Smert' spamionam

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <3jveh05sn5s2g56014754cjp57tb7kan7j@4ax.com>,
Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> >I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> >suspension).

> Was that a _really_ early Mini ? The very first ones could shed a
> wheel if you drove in tight figure eights for long enough

And just why would anyone drive in figures of eight?

They broke with normal, but hard, road use.

> - the wheel pulled clean over the nut.

Don't be silly. The steel split round the taper for the nut.

--
*Gun Control: Use both hands.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Richard Porter]

On 9 Aug 2004 "Jim Warren" <jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> R.N. Robinson <ronrob@frumiousbandersnatch.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts are
> > overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could be wrong
> > and it might have been something else.
> >
> I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> suspension).

As Dave says that may be down to Mini driving technique! Incidentally
they went back to rubber cone suspension. Hydrolastic didn't last very
long on the Mini because it was far too bouncy.

--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."

[T.Gee]

Many, Many thanks to all for your views and experiences. It is quite
reassuring to be able to share in the knowledge of the Classic car
enthusiasts. regards Gee.


"Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" <me8@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:ant0812190b0dVpW@office.ajlelectronics.co.uk. ..
> In article <4ynRc.514$fN5.88@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>, T.Gee
> <URL:mailto:Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> > Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
>
> This might be of some help to you...
>
> http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post
>
> --
> AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
> http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk
>

[Dan Drake]

On Sat, 07 Aug 2004 21:45:49 GMT, "T.Gee"
<Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

>Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd like on
>the wheel nuts. Now although I've used the same suppliers for many years and
>with the same vehicle, I'd not been asked this before and had to consult the
>car manual.
>
>I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
>originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
>For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined to
>think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)

I think the usual is for the brainless twats to take the torque
limiter off the gun altogether - possibly even using the 'hammer'
position for extra effect - then blast away until the thing is close
to breaking their wrists.

That's the only reason I can think of that explains why I can't undo
the damned nuts when I get a flat on a dark and rainy night, with
lorries shaving my butt as they go by, even if i jump up and down on
the wheel brace.
--
Dan Drake

[Richard Porter]

On 7 Aug 2004 "T.Gee" <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

> Recently, upon buying a replacement tyre I was asked what torque I'd
> like on the wheel nuts. ...
>
> I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are
> the originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
> For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm inclined to
> think the original torque would apply, however I've been wrong before:-)

It would help if you told us what car it is, what type of wheels you
have or what size the wheel studs are. But to give you some idea I have
Mini-based cars with alloy wheels and 11/16" AF chromed steel nuts. I do
the wheel nuts up to 42 lb-ft. I'm not sure what the thread size is but
it's probably around 3/8" UNF. If you have steel wheels or alloys with
steel inserts it's not too critical. When tightening steel nuts onto
alloy be careful not to overtighten.

--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."

[T.Gee]

Dave, Thanks for taking the trouble to reply; Yes I too was surprised but
when questioned the proprietor stated that with the ever present threat of
litigation for some of the most outrageous non-events he felt it was
necessary. (BTW my car manual gives the required setting - much to my
surprise!" Regards Gee.

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4cdaec8930dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article <h4cRc.1447$JP2.1069@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>,
> T.Gee <Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:
> > I've since pondered the question further for although the wheels are the
> > originals, the fixing nuts are after market stainless steel items.
>
> > For the experts among you could I ask for your observations. I'm
> > inclined to think the original torque would apply, however I've been
> > wrong before:-)
>
> You're right - different nuts won't effect the required torque.
>
> I'm amazed at a tyre place asking. It's not the sort of information that's
> in the handbook, so most owners couldn't be expected to know.
>
> --
> *The beatings will continue until morale improves *
>
> Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
> To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)]

In article <4ynRc.514$fN5.88@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net>, T.Gee
<URL:mailto:Remove-timothy.g@REMOVEvirgin.net> wrote:

> Dan, thanks for taking the trouble to reply.

This might be of some help to you...

http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

[:::Jerry::::]

"Andy Dingley" <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote in message
news:oiedh0hginip2ki5icl6uhojsfohvirfmv@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 08 Aug 2004 20:30:51 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
> <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >> Unless you have a Triumph - you can shear those tiny little things by
> >> hand.
> >
> >With the supplied wheelbrace?
>
> With an Allen key !
>

WTF were you doing with one of those ?!..

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <RgIRc.1902$5n4.20219034@news-text.cableinet.net>,
Jim Warren <jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts
> > are overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could
> > be wrong and it might have been something else.
> >
> I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> suspension).

I'm not sure that was down to overtightening - they changed the wheel
design pretty early on. Perhaps didn't realise just how hard some would
drive them.

--
*I don't work here. I'm a consultant

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Jim Warren]

R.N. Robinson <ronrob@frumiousbandersnatch.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:cf5i0t$oe7$1@news5.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
>
> Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts are
> overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could be wrong
> and it might have been something else.
>
I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
suspension).

Jim

[Andy Dingley]

On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 10:23:45 GMT, "Jim Warren"
<jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
>suspension).

Was that a _really_ early Mini ? The very first ones could shed a
wheel if you drove in tight figure eights for long enough - the wheel
pulled clean over the nut.
--
Smert' spamionam

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <3jveh05sn5s2g56014754cjp57tb7kan7j@4ax.com>,
Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmiths.com> wrote:
> >I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> >suspension).

> Was that a _really_ early Mini ? The very first ones could shed a
> wheel if you drove in tight figure eights for long enough

And just why would anyone drive in figures of eight?

They broke with normal, but hard, road use.

> - the wheel pulled clean over the nut.

Don't be silly. The steel split round the taper for the nut.

--
*Gun Control: Use both hands.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Richard Porter]

On 9 Aug 2004 "Jim Warren" <jimwarren@OMITblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> R.N. Robinson <ronrob@frumiousbandersnatch.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Actually some steel wheels can crack around the stud holes if the nuts are
> > overtightened. ISTR Sprites could suffer from this, but I could be wrong
> > and it might have been something else.
> >
> I have seen it happen on an early Mini (the one with the rubber cone
> suspension).

As Dave says that may be down to Mini driving technique! Incidentally
they went back to rubber cone suspension. Hydrolastic didn't last very
long on the Mini because it was far too bouncy.

--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."